Click Here to see common weed types for Indiana. 

It is recommended that you keep your grass no shorter than approximately 3.5” and mow it as high as possible in heat and dry periods.  If you cut your lawn shorter, you will cause stress to the grass blades and root system, as well as promote disease and weed infestation.  Remember, too, to keep those mowing blades sharp.  You should be safely inspecting them a few times throughout the growing season.  Here’s a great publication from Purdue Extension on this topic:  Turf Maintenance

For best results we recommend that you to keep off the lawn roughly one to two hours after application.  However, in times of warmer weather, you can return to your lawn once the application is dried.

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For properties with irrigation systems:  Begin watering in the Spring around two to three times a week, for roughly 15 minutes per zone for spray heads in smaller areas, and 30 minutes per zone for rotor heads in larger open areas.  Water in the early morning hours concluding before sunrise.  Avoid watering in the evenings, as it can promote fungal infestation.  Established lawns need about 1” to 2” of water per week to thrive.  As the temperatures increase during the summer, you may need to increase to daily watering during high heat or drought.  Consider adding a rain sensor to your system, so the irrigation will only run as needed during times of inclement weather.  Frequently check coverage for isolated dry areas, as heads can be easily bumped and need recalibrated.  Cut down your watering frequency, as temperatures get cooler. 

For properties without irrigation:  Every living organism needs water, so no matter how much product is placed on your lawn, it will not thrive without water.  Invest in an irrigation system, or hoses and oscillating sprinklers, to deliver much needed hydration to your lawn.  Oscillating sprinklers come in different coverage ranges, so make sure to know the size of your lawn.  Watering times for oscillating sprinklers increase, as they distribute about an inch of water per hour per zone.  Established lawns need about 1” to 2” of water per week to thrive.  Watering in the early morning is ideal to prevent evaporation.  Avoid watering in the evenings, as it can promote fungal infestation. Cut down your watering frequency as temperatures get cooler.

Lawn treatment programs have a two-prong approach:  fertilization and weed control.  With Traditional service, both are chemical treatments.   With Organic, the fertilization is organic and the weed control is a chemical.  There is not anything naturally occurring that exclusively targets weeds.  You can pour vinegar on your lawn and it is going to kill both grass and weeds, without discriminating.  With the Organic method, you are using less chemicals on your lawn.

Quite the contrary.  The rain will water in your treatment to saturate into your lawn.

Anytime after the application has been watered in.  Water as soon as possible, after application.

We recommend watering daily to saturation for a minimum of ten days post application to give the seed the best condition to germinate.

No, we do not recommend it unless you are installing a new lawn.  The first round of a lawn treatment program is called the pre-emergent stage.  Pre-emergent is applied roughly between March 1st and April 15^th annually, weather-permitting, and is a time lapsed product that works through the season to help prevent Crabgrass and Foxtail germination.  It is also counter-productive to grass seed germination and therefore the two should not be conducted simultaneously.

We begin aeration and overseeding between September 1^st through October 31^st annually.  Properties receiving overseeding are ideally completed by mid-October, weather-permitting.  Closing your irrigation system the end of October to the first week of November is ideal, so you can water your new seed daily for at least ten days post application.  However, you must close your irrigation prior to the first hard freeze to protect your backflow device.

No - please don't!  If you have a lawn care program with us, please call us immediately if you see dandelions or common weeds in your lawn and we will come out free of charge between applications to treat them for clients enrolled in a 6 treatment program.  For uncommon weeds, such as perennial Thistle, Nutsedge, Wild Violet, Ground Ivy, and Creeping Charlie, they need a specialized herbicide treatment as they are highly stubborn and prolific, which we can provide pricing for.  Weeds like Thistle should not be pulled, as that will cause the tuberous rhizomatous weeds to produce more weeds.

Bee Green performs fertilization, weed control, plant healthcare, exterior pest control, aeration and overseeding.  We do not perform mowing, landscaping (leaf removal, spring/fall clean ups), or hardscaping.  Certain exceptions may apply on a case by case assessment.

Absolutely.  Each of our application technicians is licensed through the Indiana State Chemist’s office and required to maintain continuing education units for license renewal.

Yes, most of the time it will be the same technician coming out to your property.  Consolidation of services may vary, as the technician may not have room for the equipment or products required for all treatments on his or her truck at the time of service. 

Yes.  Call us to schedule an appointment for pricing.  This service is included in our 6 round Plant Healthcare Program.

Yes.  Call us to schedule an appointment for pricing.  This service can be done annually or bi-annually and the pricing is based upon the size of the tree(s) being treated.

That is a fungal infestation called Lawn Rust and is mostly cosmetic.  Lawn Rust are spores that live within the dew on grass that hasn’t had the chance to thoroughly dry.  There is not a treatment for Lawn Rust except to mow consistently and frequently.  The blades will be cut and they will dry up causing the Lawn Rust spores to die.  It is recommended to keep your mower blades sharp and to rinse off your lawn maintenance equipment to prevent spreading.

Mushrooms are a type of fungus, but not the same as a lawn disease such as Dollar Spot, Brown Spot, or Red Thread.  There is no treatment for mushrooms.  Mushrooms are heat sensitive and they will ultimately die off as the temperatures increase with warmer, sunnier days.

There can be a couple of factors at play here.  If the yellowing is widespread, you could have a lawn that is predominately Ryegrass which goes dormant, turns brown and stops growing during drought and high temperature conditions.  You could be over or under watering.  Extremes of either can cause lawn stress.  If the  areas are spotty, you could have a fungal infestation, dying grass due to pet urine, or a grub infestation.  We consider a yard to be grub-infested if a shovel of dirt yields 10 grubs per 1 square foot.  Contact our office and we will come out free of charge to diagnose the condition affecting your lawn.

No.  Late fall and winterization rounds utilize granular product.  Just like sugar on cornflakes, the product will shake off the leaves and into the ground, as well as be watered in with Fall rains or snow melt.

You may email pictures to us at office@beegreengrass.com.  Please include your contact information and street address, so we can identify you.

No. Moles do not hibernate in the winter and can remain quite active, therefore, our mole control service is administered year-round.

Hats off to Pennington Seed for an excellent article on educating the public to identify the grass in their lawn!  While the content of this article is informative, we at Bee Green, do not endorse or promote Pennington Seed products.  Bee Green has thoughtfully assessed and tested various types and manufacturers of seed and uses the finest quality with highest yielding results for the geographical region served.  This article is for educational purposes only.  Please contact us with any questions as to which seed is right for your property’s microclimate

Do I have moles or voles?  Aren’t they just the same thing and can I treat them the same way?

No, they are not the same animal, nor are they treated the same way! 

Moles are carnivores and they eat insects, earthworms, and grubs.  Voles are herbivores and eat the stems and roots of plants.

You can differentiate between the two by the types of tunnels they leave behind.  Moles leave raised mounds in a track around your lawn.  Voles do not leave raised mounds, but you will see holes in your property about 2" in diameter and surface tracks that look like small runways. 

Voles, also known as meadow mice, are reddish, brown, or black in color and have rounded ears, whereas moles have a pointed snout, enlarged front feet with sharp claws for digging, and ears so tiny, they can’t be seen.

Neither voles nor moles hibernate in the winter, so any treatments to eradicate them must be administered year-round until they get the hint to move out of your lawn.  Both are incredibly destructive to lawn turf.

*As of 2022, Bee Green no longer offers ongoing Mole Control services.  Vole Control will still be offered.  Please contact a Critter Control service for remediation of Moles.

Is it Crabgrass taking over my lawn or Clumping Fescue?

It is March, and it is starting to get warm and sunny, and folks are calling in for lawn care estimates.  A resounding question is:  “I have Crabgrass taking over my lawn…” (too soon in the season) and “Will your treatments kill it off?” (Yes… but do you really have Crabgrass or another known nuisance called Clumping Fescue… not to be confused with Fescue RTF, which is the overseeding grass we use.  Fescue RTF is good… Clumping Fescue is bad!)

Crabgrass is an annual weed that will only start to germinate in mid-April, or later, in Indiana and is not typically visible in lawns this early in the season.  Clumping Fescue is a perennial and is visible now as it is earlier to green up than many other species and has an accelerated growth in the Spring.  Applying a special herbicide is the only way to control Clumping Fescue. 

Applying a pre-emergent, which prevents weed seed germination*, is included with your first round of lawn care treatment with us and will help to curb the crabgrass growth throughout the season. 

* A gentle reminder that you should never seed your lawn in the Spring, as the pre-emergent affects not only weed seed germination, but it is also counterproductive to grass seed germination.  Save your money and seed in the Fall.

Short answer, yes.   PetMD has an excellent article on why fleas can continue to be a problematic pest throughout cold winter months.  Bee Green’s four-round Flea & Tick Program offers lawn defense to lower the effect of hitchhikers on your persons and pets.  https://www.petmd.com/dog/parasites/do-fleas-survive-winter