Frequently Asked Questions
Click Here to see common weed types for Indiana.
It is recommended that you keep your grass no shorter than approximately 3.5” and mow it as high as possible in heat and dry periods. If you cut your lawn shorter, you will cause stress to the grass blades and root system, as well as promote disease and weed infestation. Remember, too, to keep those mowing blades sharp. You should be safely inspecting them a few times throughout the growing season. Here’s a great publication from Purdue Extension on this topic: Turf Maintenance
For best results we recommend that you to keep off the lawn roughly one to two hours after application. However, in times of warmer weather, you can return to your lawn once the application is dried.
For properties with irrigation systems: Begin watering in the Spring around two to three times a week, for roughly 15 minutes per zone for spray heads in smaller areas, and 30 minutes per zone for rotor heads in larger open areas. Water in the early morning hours concluding before sunrise. Avoid watering in the evenings, as it can promote fungal infestation. Established lawns need about 1” to 2” of water per week to thrive. As the temperatures increase during the summer, you may need to increase to daily watering during high heat or drought. Consider adding a rain sensor to your system, so the irrigation will only run as needed during times of inclement weather. Frequently check coverage for isolated dry areas, as heads can be easily bumped and need recalibrated. Cut down your watering frequency, as temperatures get cooler.
For properties without irrigation: Every living organism needs water, so no matter how much product is placed on your lawn, it will not thrive without water. Invest in an irrigation system, or hoses and oscillating sprinklers, to deliver much needed hydration to your lawn. Oscillating sprinklers come in different coverage ranges, so make sure to know the size of your lawn. Watering times for oscillating sprinklers increase, as they distribute about an inch of water per hour per zone. Established lawns need about 1” to 2” of water per week to thrive. Watering in the early morning is ideal to prevent evaporation. Avoid watering in the evenings, as it can promote fungal infestation. Cut down your watering frequency as temperatures get cooler.
Lawn treatment programs have a two-prong approach: fertilization and weed control. With Traditional service, both are chemical treatments. With Organic, the fertilization is organic and the weed control is a chemical. There is not anything naturally occurring that exclusively targets weeds. You can pour vinegar on your lawn and it is going to kill both grass and weeds, without discriminating. With the Organic method, you are using less chemicals on your lawn.
Quite the contrary. The rain will water in your treatment to saturate into your lawn.
Anytime after the application has been watered in. Water as soon as possible, after application.
We recommend watering daily to saturation for a minimum of ten days post application to give the seed the best condition to germinate.
No, we do not recommend it unless you are installing a new lawn. The first round of a lawn treatment program is called the pre-emergent stage. Pre-emergent is applied roughly between March 1st and April 15th annually, weather-permitting, and is a time lapsed product that works through the season to help prevent Crabgrass and Foxtail germination. It is also counter-productive to grass seed germination and therefore the two should not be conducted simultaneously.
We begin aeration and overseeding between September 1st through October 31st annually. Properties receiving overseeding are ideally completed by mid-October, weather-permitting. Closing your irrigation system the end of October to the first week of November is ideal, so you can water your new seed daily for at least ten days post application. However, you must close your irrigation prior to the first hard freeze to protect your backflow device.
No - please don't! If you have a lawn care program with us, please call us immediately if you see dandelions or common weeds in your lawn and we will come out free of charge between applications to treat them for clients enrolled in a 6 treatment program. For uncommon weeds, such as perennial Thistle, Nutsedge, Wild Violet, Ground Ivy, and Creeping Charlie, they need a specialized herbicide treatment as they are highly stubborn and prolific, which we can provide pricing for. Weeds like Thistle should not be pulled, as that will cause the tuberous rhizomatous weeds to produce more weeds.
Yes, we do. We are one of the few lawn treatment companies out there that offer this labor-intensive service. Usually paired with a four treatment per season Mulch Pre-Emergent program (which works in mulch beds and rock beds), we can come out to your house on a bi-weekly, flat-rated bases and tend to your garden beds with weed removal, dead-heading, and modest pruning of flowers and shrubs. (Extensive pruning is not included and would be an extra charge.) Depending upon the condition of your beds during our first application, the first maintenance may need to be time and materials to get things under control and in a manageable maintenance state. Consistency with bi-weekly maintenance is key to keep your beds in the best shape aesthetically, as possible. (Mulch Pre-Emergent treatments and Bed Maintenance are separate charges and may be completed by different technicians.)
Bee Green performs fertilization, weed control, plant healthcare, exterior pest control, aeration and overseeding. We do not perform mowing, landscaping (leaf removal, spring/fall clean ups), or hardscaping. Certain exceptions may apply on a case by case assessment.
Absolutely. Each of our application technicians is licensed through the Indiana State Chemist’s office and required to maintain continuing education units for license renewal.
Yes, most of the time it will be the same technician coming out to your property. Consolidation of services may vary, as the technician may not have room for the equipment or products required for all treatments on his or her truck at the time of service.
Yes. Call us to schedule an appointment for pricing. This service is included in our 6 round Plant Healthcare Program.
Yes. Call us to schedule an appointment for pricing. This service can be done annually or bi-annually and the pricing is based upon the size of the tree(s) being treated.
That is a fungal infestation called Lawn Rust and is mostly cosmetic. Lawn Rust are spores that live within the dew on grass that hasn’t had the chance to thoroughly dry. There is not a treatment for Lawn Rust except to mow consistently and frequently. The blades will be cut and they will dry up causing the Lawn Rust spores to die. It is recommended to keep your mower blades sharp and to rinse off your lawn maintenance equipment to prevent spreading.
Mushrooms are a type of fungus, but not the same as a lawn disease such as Dollar Spot, Brown Spot, or Red Thread. There is no treatment for mushrooms. Mushrooms are heat sensitive and they will ultimately die off as the temperatures increase with warmer, sunnier days.
There can be a couple of factors at play here. If the yellowing is widespread, you could have a lawn that is predominately Ryegrass which goes dormant, turns brown and stops growing during drought and high temperature conditions. You could be over or under watering. Extremes of either can cause lawn stress. If the areas are spotty, you could have a fungal infestation, dying grass due to pet urine, or a grub infestation. We consider a yard to be grub-infested if a shovel of dirt yields 10 grubs per 1 square foot. Contact our office and we will come out free of charge to diagnose the condition affecting your lawn.
No. Late fall and winterization rounds utilize granular product. Just like sugar on cornflakes, the product will shake off the leaves and into the ground, as well as be watered in with Fall rains or snow melt.
You may email pictures to us at email@example.com. Please include your contact information and street address, so we can identify you.
No. Moles do not hibernate in the winter and can remain quite active, therefore, our mole control service is administered year-round.
Hats off to Pennington Seed for an excellent article on educating the public to identify the grass in their lawn! While the content of this article is informative, we at Bee Green, do not endorse or promote Pennington Seed products. Bee Green has thoughtfully assessed and tested various types and manufacturers of seed and uses the finest quality with highest yielding results for the geographical region served. This article is for educational purposes only. Please contact us with any questions as to which seed is right for your property’s microclimate
Have a question not covered here? Contact us to send us a message, email us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call our office at (317) 564-4939. We are here to help make and keep your lawn beautiful!